Sunday, August 16, 2009

Improving Fuel Economy

I was talking to someone the other day that has a similar car to mine (they have an '04 Explorer, I have an '02). The conversation started around the Cash For Clunkers program, but we all already know how I feel about that! At any rate, I average about 22.5 MPG in my Explorer. They topped out about 17 MPG, and couldn't understand how I could get so many more miles per gallon than they did. We chatted about it for a while, and I explained how to make things better, I figured I'd share this out with everyone else.

Fuel economy is based around 3 things: Engine efficiency, Rolling resistance, and Weight.

Engine Efficiency - basic


Engines just aren't as efficient as they can be directly from the factory. To ensure that your vehicle is as efficient as possible do the following:

Spark Plugs

Number one improvement is uprated spark plugs. The better the plug, the better the spark, which in turn allows the engine to more effectively burn the delivered fuel. From a cost efficiency standpoint I prefer the Bosch +2 or +4 plugs. I've seen (on my old Porsche 944) a 50 mile range increase just by changing to these plugs from stock.

Plug Wires

Now, plug wires are starting to go the way of the Dodo, many new cars have the coils directly attached to the plugs. This being said, there's still many cars that employ them. Check them periodically to make sure they are still in good condition, if possible uprate them to a larger diameter wire (e.g. go from 7mm to 8mm diameter). A good shade tree way to check your wires is to raise the hood and watch the motor when it's pitch black out. You'll see bad wires arcing across the engine. The better the plug wire, the more electricity that gets delivered to the spark plug.

Air Filter

The normal air filters you can buy at your local auto parts store are ok. On the aftermarket for just about any car are high performance air filters. These high performance air filters allow for greater volumes of air to enter the engine. The more air you flow into the engine, the more efficient it will run.

Oil

Engine oil is usually the most abused part of the car. It you go to a quick oil change place they generally use a cheap oil which breaks down quickly within the engine. If it's a new car, make sure you use a high quality synthetic from day one (e.g. the Explorer has only ever had Mobil 1 synthetic in its block). If it's an older engine, use a high quality engine oil, but it doesn't need to be a synthetic. Also, if you're switching up to a better grade of oil, use an engine cleaner for the first few oil changes to get out as much residual sludge as possible. And don't complain to me that high quality oil is expensive. First of all, your engine will last much longer. Secondly, for every dollar you put into higher quality oil that's multiple dollars less you'll put in as gasoline.

Fuel Injector Cleaner

I'm always amazed how few people use this stuff. Fuel injector cleaner goes through the fuel system and cleans out any residual particulate crap. This is especially true of the injectors. A perfect example. A friend had a Cherokee that just wouldn't run, it idled like crap, and it gave me fits as I couldn't decypher the problem with it. As it turns out, he'd put 70,000 miles on the car without ever running injector cleaner. After all the hours we spent farting around with the car a couple $5.00 bottles of cleaner later it ran like a champ!

Distributor & coil

On the off chance you have a distributor and coil on your car (most new cars do not) ensure that the distributor cap and rotor are in good shape, and are clean. These are cheap parts, replace them if at all questionable. If you have a traditional coil you can upgrade it to something like a Flamethrower one which will boost electrical output from the coil

Battery

Ok, you may be going "huh?" at the mention of the battery, but remember that it controls all of the electrical systems in the car. Periodicaly check the terminals for corrosion and quality of contact. Clean them and cover them with vaseline. This will help fight corrosion. The better the connection, the better all the electrical systems (such as the ignition system) will run.


Engine efficiency - advanced



Air intake

Engine efficiency is goverened by three things, amount of spark, amount of fuel and amount of air mixing with the fuel. As we want to reduce fuel, the other two need improving. An aftermarket air intake (particularly when paired with an exhaust) will improve fuel economy by increasing the amount of air consumed into the motor. While we laugh at cold air intakes in Arizona (since we have no cold air to intake), these sorts of improvements will pay for themselves many times over during th elife of the car.

Exhaust

A free flowing exhaust manifold (also known as header) and matched exhaust pipes will help the exhaust gasses flow out of th eback of the engine more efficiently. They are espcially critical for improvements when paired with an uprated air intake.


Now, the nice side effect of the engine improvements is that you'll not only have fuel economy improvements, but this will and can also improve the amount of horsepower delivered by the engine (and who's going to complain about extra horsepower?!).

Rolling resistance


Tires

The number one on tires is ensuring that they are properly inflated. Keeping them at the appropriate pressure not only aids fuel economy, but it's also much safer for the occupants of the vehicle. When it comes to fuel efficiency and tires, it's also about rolling resistance. The thinner and harder the tire compound, the less the rolling resistance will be. Yes, I know it's popular to put ridiculous sized racing tires and rims on a car, but not only are you paying out the wazoo for "bling" but you're costing yourself money each time you hit the pump!

Shocks / Struts

Shocks and struts are responsible for two things, managing the ride quality of the car and keeping the tires on the road as much as possible. If you're driving on aged shocks/struts you're actually losing fuel economy because the power driving the tires is not 100% on the road. This is also a safety hazard, as your effective stopping distance decreases over the life of the shock/strut.

Lubrication

Now, the number of lube points on cars has decreased dramatically over the years. My old Studebaker has 23 lube points, I think my Explorer has maybe 10. Even though there are less of them, that doesn't make them any less important. The second the power from the engine is transferred through the transmission you start to lose it because of driveline and vehicle friction. Periodically lubricating all these points will minimize the internal friction loss

Transmission

Most people do not realize that transmissions need flushing, which is just like an oil change. Now, it certainly doesn't occur with the same frequency, but it certainly needs to be done. Changing or flushing the transmission and replacing the filter, if so equipped, will improve its performance, which minimizes power loss through the drivetrain.

Weight


Go on a diet! Not necessarily for you, but your car. If you're anything like me (wife, 2 kids and 2 dogs) you'll note that over time your car becomes a dumping ground for left behind toys, baby strollers, and junk of that nature (or in my car's case, piles of car parts). Every additional pound of unnecessary weight reduces fuel economy. Go through your car and purge it of unnecessary stuff.

Hopefully with these tips you can take a car that performs like my friend's (17 mpg) and get it to run like mine (22.5 mpg)!

Cheers!
Jody